Ama Dablam Expedition

Ama Dablam, one of the most stunning mountains in the Himalaya and one of the most impressive & favorite mountains in the world is situated in the heart of Khumbu region. Mt Ama Dablam lies directly above Thyangboche Monastery on the well-worn path to Everest Base Camp and is admired by thousands of trekkers and climbers. Offering superb, technical climbing experience in magnificent setting, Ama Dablam Expedition let you enjoy abundant cultural and charming diversions.

The Ama Dablam expedition is not a "guided" ascent. It will be a professionally led team of competent mountaineers who have enough experience to climb one of the world's most sought after mountains without undue risk. This approach ensures that team members are suitably experienced, reasonably self-sufficient and capable and willing to move between camps unsupervised. You will still have a high level of support, starting with strong, confident leadership; this will maximize your chances of success without undermining the quality of your achievement.

Amadablam expedition besides offering the panoramic view of four of the world’s highest Cho Oyu, Lhotse, Makalu & Everest peak, justifies the highest level of climbing artistry.
Ama dablam expedition need to have good skills on rock and ice climbing and technically competent. On most parts of the routes there will be fixed rope, however, the climbers should posses skills to climb through steep rock and hard water ice. If you have the necessary experience and wish to participate fully as a team member of an expertly led expedition to one of the world's most impressive mountains, this could be the trip for you!

Our route will be by the original line of ascent, the South West Ridge. This gives a fine and varied climb, sustained at a reasonable level of difficulty and with good camp platforms at strategic points of the Ama Dablam Expedition. The climbing provides interest on rock, snow and ice and although of a fairly technical nature, in normal conditions it is never very difficult. Apart from one short section, the climb is objectively very safe.

A descriptive route of Amadablam from South West Ridge is as below:
From base camp c4,450m old grassy moraine ridges are followed roughly eastwards to a broad saddle c5,150m from where we can see the Mingbo La. From the saddle, we ascend easily northwards until the ground steepens at the start of a large boulder field. It is possible to place an Advanced Base Camp at 5,400m below the boulder field. The route continues in a northwards direction around the base of the boulder field, and then follow cairns upwards towards the toe of the SW ridge. Camp 1 should now be visible just below Pt. 5,705m. At the end of the boulder field, slabs are crossed and then a short gully ascended, which allows access to the ridge proper in a very exposed position. Easy scrambling on the east side of the ridge leads quickly to Camp 1 c5,700m. There are four or five tent platforms.

From Camp 1 we contour round the snowy bowl (possible alternative site for Camp 1) until below two rock fingers. The east side of the ridge is followed, climbing easy mixed ground until a short pitch of Severe (5.4) standard leads to the ridge proper. The ridge is narrow in places, turning difficulties on the east side, until the second tension traverse leads to two pitches of Very Severe (5.6) standard. The route continues on the crest of the ridge for a short distance until we are forced via an awkward step onto the west side of the ridge. The crest of the ridge is regained and easy ground followed to the start of a traverse on the east face, which leads to the Yellow Tower. This 15 metre pitch, which is just below Camp II, is one of the hardest pitches on the climb at HVS (5.8) standard. A short section of ridge now leads to Camp II c5,900m. Camp II has very limited tent space (3 or 4 platforms) and is extremely exposed. It is sometimes only used as an equipment dump with expeditions choosing to go from Camp I to Camp III in a single push.

From Camp II, the climb skirts a red rock bluff on the east and after a step down, follows the snow ridge direct to an awkward traverse eastwards which leads to a gully between the Grey Tower and the lower rock buttress. We climb the gully until a very exposed traverse line is reached on the west side of the ridge. A short snow slope is ascended to the start of the Mushroom Ridge. This is followed and typically involves negotiating some steep snow sections, until Camp III c6,300m is reached (since the November 2006 Dablam collapse, this has been sited in a sheltered position, just off the east side of the ridge).

The route climbs the snow and ice slope directly above Camp III and to the right hand side of the Dablam (there can be hard water ice on this section. In 2008, this section was fixed on mixed ground to the right). We continue to skirt the Dablam on the right side and then move westwards to gain a small snowfield below the Burgschrund. The Burgschrund is crossed and then the climb heads directly to the obvious ice crest. This is followed in a magnificent position to the summit.